Scuba Wet Suits: Tips on How to Choose the Right Thermal Protection

Wet suits (also known as “exposure suits”) are what keep a diver’s body temperature at a comfortable level. When a diver enters the water, their
body temperature (which is about 98.6° F or 37° C) starts to drop. This is because water conducts heat away much better than air. So, if a diver wants that “warm, fuzzy feeling” while diving, they wear an exposure suit.

In addition to keeping divers warm, a good exposure suit also protects divers from cuts, abrasions, and stings that sometimes happen during a dive. Brushing against certain types of coral can cause a mild skin irritation on bare skin. These skin irritations normally will not occur when divers are wearing a good exposure suit

How a Wet Suit Works

A good exposure suit relies on two things to make it work properly. The thickness of the neoprene and a good fit.

Exposure suits are made from a synthetic material filled with gas bubbles called neoprene. Neoprene dive suits come in thicknesses ranging from 2mm to 9mm. Unfortunately suits in the 6mm to 9mm range sometimes feel bulky and hard to put on and take off.

Exposure suits rely on trapping a thin layer of water between the suit and the body. This thin layer of water gradually becomes warm. If the suit fits badly,
the water flows more freely between the suit and the body. This chills rather than insulates the diver.

Types of Wet Suits

There are several types of exposure suits. The type a diver chooses depends on three things:

1. The temperature of
   the water they are diving in.
2. Their body mass (body fat or no body fat, muscular or not muscular).
3. The type of diving activity.

The colder
the water, the more insulation a body needs. Your body size and mass also determines how much insulation you need. A larger diver will need less insulation than a smaller diver. A diver who is muscular will need less insulation than a larger diver. Your level of activity is a good way to determine how much insulation you need. The more active you are during a dive the more heat your body generates. This means you will stay warmer during the dive.

DIVESKINS AND SHORTIES

In warm, tropical waters, most people will not need any thermal insulation. But it is a good idea to wear a dive skin or shortie wet suit to help prevent your equipment from rubbing against your skin. These types of
dive suits also give protection from the sun before and after a dive and provide protection against
stings and scrapes.

FULL-LENGTH WETSUITS

The most commonly found exposure suit is a full-length suit. This type of suit is one piece and covers the entire body from the neck to the ankles and wrists. They come in varying thicknesses from 2-9mm. This type of suit not only offers more thermal protection but also offers added protection against
stings and scrapes.

SEMI-DRY SUITS

Semi-dry suits are one of the most versatile suits a diver can have. Though intended for colder waters, where they are worn with a hood and gloves, semi-dry suits can even be worn in warm Mediterranean seas.

Like normal neoprene
dive suits, semi-dry suits work by trapping a thin layer of water between the body and the suit. The difference is a semi-dry suit has better seals at the wrists, ankles, and neck. This helps stop water from flushing through the suit and allows trapped water to warm up.

Semi-dry suits come in thicknesses ranging from7-9mm. Some semi-dry suits are designed to be used in layers. These are commonly called a “Farmer John Suit”. They consist of a bib-overall style base layer with a jacket that looks like a shortie with long sleeves and a hood.

DRY SUITS

If you are looking for the best thermal protection and you do not like a damp body after a dive, then a dry suit is the way to go. Because dry suits are designed to be air tight, they use trapped air, not water, as an insulating barrier. Because dry suits offer the ultimate thermal protection, they are by far the most expensive dive suit to buy.

WET SUIT ACCESSORIES

To add additional warmth and protection to your wet suit, you may want to consider these accessories: separate hoods, gloves, jackets, and booties.

WET SUIT THICKNESS

There are guide lines for the type and thickness of suit needed in different conditions. Every diver’s comfort level is different. Some divers may prefer a lighter suit while other divers are more comfortable with a thicker neoprene. Being comfortable is important in having a good dive.

TEMPERATURE and SUIT THICKNESS*

76°-86° 1/16″(1.6mm)neoprene or lycra

69°-84° 1/8″ (3mm)neoprene

64°-77° 3/16 (5mm)neoprene

49°-75° 1/4″ (6.5mm)neoprene

33°-66° 3/8″ (9.5mm)neoprene,dry suit

*Based on manufacturers recommendation

Maintaining Your Wet Suit

A simple maintenance routine is the key to prolonging the life of your wet suit.

• Rinse you dive suit in fresh, clean water after every dive. This will remove salt and debris, which can cause it to rot.
• Let your suit dry in the open air, out of the direct sun light.
• Once your suit is dry, place it on a wide hanger in a cool dry place out of direct sunlight.
• Periodically wash your suit with a special wet suit shampoo. This helps maintain the suppleness of the neoprene and prevent mildew.
• Lubricate zippers occasionally to prevent degradation of metal or plastic.

Additional maintenance for dry suits.

• Always store your dry suit rolled up in bag, away from heat and ozone-producing machines, such as hot water heaters.
• Have the valves and zippers on your dry suit inspected annually by a qualified repair technician to ensure proper function.

Scuba Gauges, Giving Scuba Divers Critical Dive Information

Scuba gauges give a diver three very important pieces of information:

1. Time

2. Depth

3. Air Consumption

This information enables a diver to stay within safe time and depth limits and avoid running out of air. There are many different devices on the market to help with this, from simple gauges to complex digital consoles.

Time

If a diver is not using a dive computer to monitor their nitrogen, they dive according to approved dive tables. To use dive tables properly, a diver needs to track their downtime. This can be done with a good dive watch. Two things make a good dive watch: water resistance and a rotating bezel.

1. Water Resistance. Good dive watches are rated to a depth in meters or feet (e.g. 200 feet) or a pressure rating in atmospheres (e.g. 4atm). Even though most divers probably won’t dive below 130 feet (the recreational dive limit), a good dive watch should be rated to 200 feet. Note: There is a difference between “water resistance” and “waterproof”. A “waterproof” watch is what you would wear in the shower, but would probably start leaking at 15-20 feet.

2. Rotating Bezel. A bezel is an adjustable ring on the face of the dive watch with a pointer indicator. At the beginning of a dive, the pointer on the bezel is aligned with the minute hand where it stays though out the dive. At the end of the dive, you compare the difference between the bezel and the minute hand to find out the length of the dive. The bezel should only move “counterclockwise”. It is possible to accidently move the bezel during a dive. Because of this, watchmakers make sure any accidental movement will turn the time in a conservative direction, making the dive longer rather than shorter.

Depth

Another important part of scuba gauges is a depth gauge. A depth gauge enables a diver to keep track of their depth even if they cannot see the water’s surface. Gauges can be either an analog (needle-and-dial) device or a digital device. Both work in the same way. They measure the surrounding water pressure and convert this into an accurate reading of your depth. Another feature of a good depth gauge is a maximum depth indicator. This tells a diver their maximum during a dive and must be reset after each dive.

Air Consumption

Another equally important part of scuba gauges is a submersible pressure gauge (SPG). This is connected to the first stage with a high-pressure hose and measures the pressure of the air in the tank. The SPG is much like the gas gauge on a car. At the beginning of a dive, a diver starts with a full tank. This should be about 3000 psi or 200 bars. As the diver breathes during the dive, the gauge will move slowly downwards. This allows the diver to have enough air left in the tank to:

1. Make a slow, safe ascent

2. Make any necessary decompression stops

3. Inflate their BCD once at the surface

4. Breath from the regulator if the surface conditions are rough

A submersible pressure gauge also allows a diver to stop diving with air still in the tank. This keeps contaminants from entering the tank due to no air pressure.

Wrist Depth Gauge

Scuba gauges come in two basic styles. Stand alone gauges or gauge consoles.

Stand alone gauges such as a wrist mounted depth gauge or a submersible pressure gauge attached to the first stage of a regulator are great backups when using digital gauges. Gauge consoles allow divers to have all their gauges in one place.

Although less easy to read, analog gauges sometimes give slightly more accurate readings than digital gauges, particularly at shallow depth.

Choosing Scuba Gauges

When choosing scuba gauges, remember to look for:

1. Easy-to-read numbers
2. Luminescent dial or back lighting options
3. Rotating/swivel mounting
4. Easy disassembly for cleaning or replacing parts
5. Good warranty

The Scuba Regulator, a Key Life Support Device for Scuba Divers

One of the most important items of diving gear is a scuba regulator. It is the invention that makes scuba diving possible. It is a two-stage gas-supply system that gives a diver air from their dive tank at the correct pressure to be able to breathe underwater.
A scuba tank can contain a large amount of air in a small space. This is because the air in the tank has been highly compressed. Before a diver can breathe this compressed air, it must be reduced to a safe pressure. This pressure differs depending on how deep a diver is underwater.
The deeper a diver goes, the greater the pressure of the water pressing on their chest cavity. This is what we call Ambient Pressure. The air a scuba tank supplies must be at the same pressure as Ambient Pressure. If the pressure is not the same, the lungs will not be able to inflate properly.

How a Scuba Regulator Works

The scuba regulator uses two different parts to do its job of supplying air at the right pressure. The 1st stage, which is connected straight to the top of the scuba tank; the 2nd stage, which is also known as the demand valve (the round thing a diver has in their mouth that blows bubbles). It is connected to the 1st stage by a rubber hose. Both stages play an important part in delivering air at the correct pressure.

1st Stage

The job of the 1st stage is to reduce the air coming out of the tank to a lower pressure of around 116-145 psi (8-10 bars) above ambient pressure. A valve opens in the 1st stage and allows some of the low-pressure air to pass into the hose that connects the 1st stage to the 2nd stage and then closes again. When the air inside the hose is inhaled by the diver, the 1st stage detects a decrease in the pressure in the hose. It then allows more air to flow in, replacing the air that was used by the diver. It automatically adjusts the air pressure in the hose when depth changes occur. It also supplies air to inflate a divers BCD or dry suit. This is done with separate hose going from the BCD or dry suit to the 1st stage.

2nd Stage

The second stage, or demand valve, reduces the low-pressure in the hose to the same pressure as the water a diver is swimming through. This allows a diver to breathe normally. Inside the second stage is a diaphragm. This diaphragm is subject to equal forces of water pressure on one side, and air pressure from a breathing diver on the other side. Breathing in from the mouthpiece reduces the air pressure inside the chamber. The water pressure pushes the diaphragm in, opening the intake valve. When the diver stops inhaling, the pressure in the chamber balances and the valve closes. This gives a diver an air delivery system that supplies air only when they ask for it (Inhaling). A well balanced regulator that is properly maintained will do its job so well that breathing becomes natural and effortless.
The 2nd stage also has an exhaust valve. This lets a diver exhale air out without letting water in. This is done with a simple one-way valve that lets the air escape.
There is also a purge button located on its front surface that, when pushed, allows air into the chamber of the 2nd stage. This air pushes or purges water out of the chamber through the exhaust valve or mouthpiece (this is where the bubbles come from).

The Octopus

The octopus, or alternate air source, is another 2nd stage. It is a backup 2nd stage which is to be used if a diver’s primary 2nd stage fails or if a diver needs to make an emergency accent with another diver.
The octopus and the hose it is attached to are usually colored bright yellow. The bright yellow color makes it easy to find in an emergency. The hose attached to the octopus is longer. This allows it to be offered to a buddy easily and for the buddy pair to remain face to face in a shared-air accent. It is attached to the BC in the area of the diver’s chest.

Tips on How to Choose the Right Regulator

A scuba regulator is a vital piece of any diver’s scuba gear. Because of this, most divers choose to buy their own instead of having to rent one every time they dive. Prices vary enormously, but it is worth investing descent money in a good one. After all, a diver’s life depends on it.
There are several types of scuba regulators. Basic ones are simple, inexpensive and can be very reliable and durable. High-performance ones are more expensive and combine high build quality with low inhalation effort and toughness. Some are environmentally sealed for cold-water use.
And for those divers that are nitrox nuts, there are regulators designed to handle high oxygen concentrations without risk of combustion.
Here are some things to think about when choosing a scuba regulator:

• A primary second stage that has a comfortable mouth piece and easy to hold
• Makes breathing feel “effortless”
• External controls which let you make fine adjustment to air flow
• A purge button that can easily be pushed while wearing thick dive gloves
• Swivel joints on the second stage that offer improved ease of movement
• A good warranty
• Never buy an unbalanced regulator
• Some divers prefer diaphragm regulators for their smooth movement and they have less moving parts

The right scuba regulator is the most important purchase a diver can make. It is important to take care of it properly by rinsing it in fresh water after every dive and storing it out of direct sunlight. They need to be serviced periodically by a dive professional.

Find The Scuba BCD That Is Right For You

Scuba BCD’s, or Buoyancy Control Devices are an essential part of a scuba divers equipment. This jacket style device helps divers control their buoyancy while on a scuba dive. In addition to buoyancy, it is where the rest of a divers gear is secured. A scuba bc will have a harness to secure a dive tank, pockets and clips to attach a divers gauges and octopus.

Buoyancy Control Devices come in several different styles. This enables each diver to find just the right scuba bcd. The most common type is the “Vest” or “Jacket” style. This is worn like a jacket or vest with the inflatable bladders on the sides. There are two over the shoulder straps with quick release clips. Across the mid section the is a cumber bun and or strap with a quick release clip. This jacket or vest style enables divers and all their gear to float comfortably at the surface in the head up, feet down position.

Another type is the “Wing” style. This scuba bcd has the inflatable bladders on the back of the jacket instead of on the sides. This style enables divers to swim at the surface with all their gear in a face down position.

When choosing a buoyancy device, fit and comfort are very important. If the jacket is too small, it is difficult to inflate without restricting your breathing. If the jacket is too large, it becomes very sloppy underwater. The tank is all over the place. One minute it’s banging you in the back of the head, the next minute it’s under your arm. A jacket that is too small or too large makes for a very uncomfortable dive.

Your buoyancy device should fit like your best coat. Not too tight under the arms or around the shoulders. Just a little snug across the belly. Divers can feel when their bc jacket fits just right. They can inflate the jacket to float comfortably at the surface with all their dive gear or adjust their buoyancy underwater and never loss the comfort or fit of the jacket. And ladies, there are scuba bcd jackets made just for you. Most all manufacturers have designed buoyancy devices for the shape of the female body.

Another thing to look at when buying a buoyancy device is lift capacity. Proper lift capacity allows divers with all their dive gear to float at the surface with their head comfortably out of the water. This will differ from diver to diver based on body weight, density, and the amount of weight (to include weight belt, camera, flashlight,etc.) each diver carries.

Maybe it’s the basic “jacket” style. Perhaps it’s the more expensive “weight integrated ” style or even the top of the line all-in-one integrated BCD/weights/breathing system that works for you. With all the choices, a diver can easily find the right scuba bcd. Just remember these basic tips when looking for the right buoyancy jacket.

• Comfortable fit

• Lift capacity

• Good, quality construction

• Pressure release valves that are easy to reach

• Comfortable, quick-release straps

• Quick adjustment

• Pockets with Velcro closure or zippers

Dive smart. Dive safe.