Dive Watch Repair: Do It Yourself?

Dive watch repair can be a tricky proposition. If you have one of the cheap dive watches and it needs to be repaired, you are probably better off just throwing it out and buying a new one. It’s not worth the time and money to have it repaired.

If you have a good quality scuba dive watch that needs to be repaired, such as needing a battery replacement, it can be tempting to do it yourself. After all, don’t you just need a screwdriver, a battery and rubber gasket (possibly)?

Well, yes. But if you do it yourself, you run the risk of voiding the warranty.

So if you change it yourself and the watch later floods, you are out of luck. So check your warranty information carefully before you attempt to do anything yourself or have someone other than the manufacturer/authorized dealer do the work.

If the manufacturer changes the batteries or does any other dive watch repair, they will normally retest the watch and certify that it is still water resistant to whatever level applies.

This is not to say that a qualified watch repair shop can’t do the job. I used to live in NYC and a friend of mine took her dive watch to be repaired to this little old repair shop nearby. Everything was fine. It’s your decision but at least it will be an informed one.

From time to time you may notice condensation on your dive watch face and wonder if it needs to be repaired.

According to Citizen watch, if it goes away after a short period of time it is nothing to worry about. This is a normal occurrence and is caused by sudden temperature changes (ie, going into a cool building when it is hot outdoors).

However, if the condensation does not go away after a short period, you should have it inspected.

So the long and short of dive watch repair – if it’s a good dive watch, you’ll probably want the manufacturer/authorized dealer to handle it if you don’t want to void the warranty. A cheap dive watch? Probably not worth the bother.

Scuba Watches and Straps: How to Care and Maintenance

Scuba watches are one of the most popular pieces of scuba equipment. After all, we can use them out of the water too – double duty is good.

So should you make a huge investment or a more modest one in your timing device?

It’s up to you but whatever you choose, you should take proper care of your watch so it will be good for many dives to come. Here’s how to protect your investment:

(For more information on dive watches, read our Scuba Diving Watches Buyer’s Guide.)

Dive Watch Care and Maintenance Tips

It doesn’t take alot to properly maintain your scuba watches. Here are some easy steps to follow to ensure your dive watch will last you for years:

• Rinse after each dive – Thoroughly rinse your watch in fresh water after each dive. You should also rinse it after getting out of a pool to get the chlorine off.
• Turn the bezel – While you are rinsing your dive watch, if you have a bezel, turn it to get rid of any grit, etc. that may have gotten under the dial.
• Check gaskets – Scuba watches are waterproof due to rubber or plastic seals inside the watch. These gaskets will eventually deteriorate and affect the water resistancy of your watch. Manufacturers suggest that these be changed and/or inspected anywhere from every 18 to 36 months. If you dive frequently, it is recommended that the watch be pressure tested and the gaskets be changed/inspected annually.
• Don’t wear in sauna, Jacuzzi or hot tub – Extreme changes in temperature may affect the sealing capabilities of your dive watch. To be safe, take off your watch when you are enjoying yourself in these places. Lucky you!
• Screw/Push Crowns – If you have a screw down crown make sure it is screwed all the way down before getting in the water. In the same vein, push in crowns should be pushed in all the way before going in the water. Do not use the crowns or push down devices while you are underwater.
• Avoid chemicals – Do not expose dive watches to aerosol sprays, strong chemicals or solvents. They may damage or dry out parts of dive watches.

So with a little care, your dive watch should last you for many years and dives to come.

Dive Watch Strap

The band on scuba watches can be rubber or metal (stainless steel or titanium). Rubber bands on dive watches should last a long time but they will eventually start to deteriorate. Just make a habit of checking it periodically to make sure it has no tears or other flaws.

If you have a dive watch strap made of metal, it should be stainless steel or titanium since they are resistant to corrosion from salt water. (Read more about titanium watches here).

If you are going to be wearing a wetsuit, decide where you band on the dive watch to go – on top of or under the wetsuit. If you like to wear your scuba watches on top of your wetsuit, check to make sure the dive watch strap will fit around the wetsuit.

Scuba Diver Watch – Which Type is Best for You?

When buying a scuba diver watch, there are many different types and categories to choose from. Which is best is really a matter of personal preference.(For more information on dive watches, read our Scuba Diving Watches Buyers Guide.).

The following categories are not mutually exclusive – ie, you can have an analog dive watch made of titanium. Pick and choose. Whichever type and function you like, chances are it is available. The choices are pretty much unlimited.

Analog Dive Watch

This is the most common type of scuba diver watch that I see on a dive boat. Analog refers to the display of the watch. Rather than a digital display (discussed below), the display has two (sometimes three) hands that point to numbers on the round dial face. Everyone knows what this is, but you may not have known what they were called.

Analog dive watches should have a unidirectional bezel. (I discuss bezels and other features on this scuba dive watch page).

Digital Dive Watch

A digital dive watch is also a popular choice, especially among the cost conscious. These are typically less expensive than an analogue scuba diver watch. This type of watch should have a backing light that is easy to use, even underwater. The light will make it easier to read in low vis conditions or if you are on a night dive. The numbers should be large enough that they are easy to read at a glance.

A digital dive watch, like the analogue, can come with many different options. Choose what is important to you and how you will be using the watch (such as, is it a primary or secondary timing device?. The stopwatch function that comes on the digital dive watch is often used to time the dive or safety stop. My husband and I both have computers and digital dive watches and we use the stopwatch to time our safety stop (a bit redundant but that’s the habit we have).

Some dive watches have both an analog face and a (or more than one) digital readout.

Automatic Dive Watch

An automatic dive watch is a self-winding watch and is designed to never need a battery. It works due to the movement of the wrist. The movement of the wrist will cause the mechanism inside the watch to wind the mainspring. The winding of the mainspring powers the watch.

If the watch is not worn for a couple of days, the watch will no longer have power. A fully wound automatic dive watch will normally last up to 2 days if not worn. If you exceed this limit, you will have to power the watch up again when you put it back on (by turning the crown). Because of this, companies sell watch winders to keep power to the watch when they are not being worn. An interesting device, but not a cheap device.

This type of watch is great for watch lovers who can appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into a scuba diver watch like this.

Titanium Dive Watch

In a titanium dive watch, the casing (or portion of) is made of titanium. The advantage of titanium in a scuba diver watch is that it is highly resistant to salt water corrosion. Titanium is also hypoallergenic which may be important to certain wearers. Another advantage of a titanium dive watch is that titanium is about 50% stronger than steel (the common casing material for a dive watch) but around 30% lighter. A watch with a casing made with all titanium is pretty pricey and if you add in a titanium band, get out another credit card!

Chronograph Scuba Diving Watch

This type of watch operates like a stopwatch. A chronograph scuba diving watch has two to four (typically) smaller dials set in the watch face. The stopwatch insets can time different events in minutes, seconds or whatever interval is designed in the watch. Most chronograph scuba diving watches can time events up to an hour. Scuba divers use these stopwatches to time a variety of actions – bottom time, dive length, safety stop, etc.

Good luck buying your scuba diver watch. Whether you buy a digital dive watch, a titanium dive watch or a combination of any of the types listed above, I hope this information helps make your decision a bit easier.

Scuba Dive Watches: A Guide to Keeping Time Underwater

Scuba dive watches are one of the few pieces of scuba diving equipment that is useful both in and out of the water. You see all types of dive watches around.

And some people actually use them to go diving!

Many people wear scuba dive watches as a fashion statement and other people add them to their watch collections.
It’s all good, but if you are diving with this watch you have to know what you are buying since your are depending upon it to keep track of your dive. Here’s a guide to help you shop for dive watches and hopefully make the task a little easier.

Scuba Dive Watches: A Primer

The importance of a dive watch varies, depending on if it is your primary or secondary source of timing. If this is your primary source of timing your dive, you need to get a high quality, dependable watch. If you have a dive computer and the watch is serving as your secondary timing device, it is not as critical if the watch fails underwater. Of course, you don’t want this to happen but it won’t endanger you if it does.

When you shop for dive watches, two of the most important aspects you need to consider are the following:

1. Water Resistance: First off, you do not want a “waterproof” watch. These will not stand up to the pressure of diving (literally). It’s OK if you splash it in the pool, but that’s about it. The type of scuba dive watches you are looking for will be rated in either depth (feet or meters) or pressure.As a recreational diver, even though you will not be going below 130 feet you should get a watch that is rated to at least 200 meters (660 feet) to be safe. This is the recommendation by most guidelines.. The reasoning behind this is that the watch is tested under controlled circumstances. That is, the watch and the water are both static. If there is any movement, be it the watch or the water, the pressure on the watch increases.Having a higher rating allows for movement of the diver and any bumps, jarring, etc. that may occur. Scuba diving watches rated for 200 meters should be dependable under all normal diving circumstances. If this is your primary timing device, try getting one with the higher water resistance rating. Seiko provides the following chart to determine what type of water resistance you need.* Water-resistant: OK for accidental splashes; should not be worn while swimming or diving.* Water-resistant to 50 meters: Suitable for normal swimming.* Water-resistant to 100 meters: Suitable for swimming,snorkeling and other water sports (except scuba diving).* Water-resistant to 200 meters: Suitable for all of the above and for scuba diving if it complies with international standards for divers watches (Seiko’s watches are marked divers watch).
2. Type of Bezel: When you shop for dive watches, pay attention to the type of bezel. You want one that has a unidirectional (one-way) adjustable bezel. Most good dive watches come with this type of bezel, but check to make sure.The unidirectional bezel will only turn in a counterclockwise direction. This means that if you knock the bezel and it moves, it can only move in the conservative direction (opposite the way the minute hand is moving).Thus the watch will show that you have been down for a longer period of time, rather than a shorter period of time (which would happen if the bezel moved in the other direction) if the bezel is accidentally moved.The bezel should also be tight enough that it needs some effort to move it around the dial. You’ll feel it go against the internal indents as you move it.Test it out and make sure it is easy to hold. There are usually indentations on the outer edge of the bezel to give you a firm grasp and make it easier to move.If you are unfamiliar with a bezel, it is a metal ring that goes around the face of the watch and has point indicators on it. The bezel also has a zero mark to designate the starting point. To use the bezel, you turn it until the zero mark lines up with the minute hands. To tell how much time has elapsed, all you have to do is look to the indicators on the bezel that the minute hand is pointing to.

Scuba Dive Watches: Other Considerations

Other things to consider when you shop for dive watches are:

• Clear Face – A clear face is the best option for scuba dive watches. You want to be able to see the information clearly and quickly.
• Screw Down Crown and Backs – A good dive watch should have a screw down crown rather than the push/pull crown that most dress (non-water) watches have. This gives the watch a better watertight seal. Backs that screw down rather than just press in also provide a tighter seal.
• Luminous Dials – Luminous dials make the watch face easier to read in low vis situations and/or night dives.

These are some of the basics to consider when you shop for dive watches.

Scuba Wet Suits: Tips on How to Choose the Right Thermal Protection

Wet suits (also known as “exposure suits”) are what keep a diver’s body temperature at a comfortable level. When a diver enters the water, their
body temperature (which is about 98.6° F or 37° C) starts to drop. This is because water conducts heat away much better than air. So, if a diver wants that “warm, fuzzy feeling” while diving, they wear an exposure suit.

In addition to keeping divers warm, a good exposure suit also protects divers from cuts, abrasions, and stings that sometimes happen during a dive. Brushing against certain types of coral can cause a mild skin irritation on bare skin. These skin irritations normally will not occur when divers are wearing a good exposure suit

How a Wet Suit Works

A good exposure suit relies on two things to make it work properly. The thickness of the neoprene and a good fit.

Exposure suits are made from a synthetic material filled with gas bubbles called neoprene. Neoprene dive suits come in thicknesses ranging from 2mm to 9mm. Unfortunately suits in the 6mm to 9mm range sometimes feel bulky and hard to put on and take off.

Exposure suits rely on trapping a thin layer of water between the suit and the body. This thin layer of water gradually becomes warm. If the suit fits badly,
the water flows more freely between the suit and the body. This chills rather than insulates the diver.

Types of Wet Suits

There are several types of exposure suits. The type a diver chooses depends on three things:

1. The temperature of
   the water they are diving in.
2. Their body mass (body fat or no body fat, muscular or not muscular).
3. The type of diving activity.

The colder
the water, the more insulation a body needs. Your body size and mass also determines how much insulation you need. A larger diver will need less insulation than a smaller diver. A diver who is muscular will need less insulation than a larger diver. Your level of activity is a good way to determine how much insulation you need. The more active you are during a dive the more heat your body generates. This means you will stay warmer during the dive.

DIVESKINS AND SHORTIES

In warm, tropical waters, most people will not need any thermal insulation. But it is a good idea to wear a dive skin or shortie wet suit to help prevent your equipment from rubbing against your skin. These types of
dive suits also give protection from the sun before and after a dive and provide protection against
stings and scrapes.

FULL-LENGTH WETSUITS

The most commonly found exposure suit is a full-length suit. This type of suit is one piece and covers the entire body from the neck to the ankles and wrists. They come in varying thicknesses from 2-9mm. This type of suit not only offers more thermal protection but also offers added protection against
stings and scrapes.

SEMI-DRY SUITS

Semi-dry suits are one of the most versatile suits a diver can have. Though intended for colder waters, where they are worn with a hood and gloves, semi-dry suits can even be worn in warm Mediterranean seas.

Like normal neoprene
dive suits, semi-dry suits work by trapping a thin layer of water between the body and the suit. The difference is a semi-dry suit has better seals at the wrists, ankles, and neck. This helps stop water from flushing through the suit and allows trapped water to warm up.

Semi-dry suits come in thicknesses ranging from7-9mm. Some semi-dry suits are designed to be used in layers. These are commonly called a “Farmer John Suit”. They consist of a bib-overall style base layer with a jacket that looks like a shortie with long sleeves and a hood.

DRY SUITS

If you are looking for the best thermal protection and you do not like a damp body after a dive, then a dry suit is the way to go. Because dry suits are designed to be air tight, they use trapped air, not water, as an insulating barrier. Because dry suits offer the ultimate thermal protection, they are by far the most expensive dive suit to buy.

WET SUIT ACCESSORIES

To add additional warmth and protection to your wet suit, you may want to consider these accessories: separate hoods, gloves, jackets, and booties.

WET SUIT THICKNESS

There are guide lines for the type and thickness of suit needed in different conditions. Every diver’s comfort level is different. Some divers may prefer a lighter suit while other divers are more comfortable with a thicker neoprene. Being comfortable is important in having a good dive.

TEMPERATURE and SUIT THICKNESS*

76°-86° 1/16″(1.6mm)neoprene or lycra

69°-84° 1/8″ (3mm)neoprene

64°-77° 3/16 (5mm)neoprene

49°-75° 1/4″ (6.5mm)neoprene

33°-66° 3/8″ (9.5mm)neoprene,dry suit

*Based on manufacturers recommendation

Maintaining Your Wet Suit

A simple maintenance routine is the key to prolonging the life of your wet suit.

• Rinse you dive suit in fresh, clean water after every dive. This will remove salt and debris, which can cause it to rot.
• Let your suit dry in the open air, out of the direct sun light.
• Once your suit is dry, place it on a wide hanger in a cool dry place out of direct sunlight.
• Periodically wash your suit with a special wet suit shampoo. This helps maintain the suppleness of the neoprene and prevent mildew.
• Lubricate zippers occasionally to prevent degradation of metal or plastic.

Additional maintenance for dry suits.

• Always store your dry suit rolled up in bag, away from heat and ozone-producing machines, such as hot water heaters.
• Have the valves and zippers on your dry suit inspected annually by a qualified repair technician to ensure proper function.

Dive Computers, the Smart Choice for Safe Scuba Diving

Dive computers, or scuba computers, have evolved at what seems like light speed. They have become easier to read, easier to understand, and easier to use for their intended purpose-to provide information to monitor your depth and time underwater on every dive. This information is critical to help divers avoid decompression sickness. These functions used to be done by using a depth gauge, a dive watch, and manual dive tables. Now these functions and many more can be done by a dive computer.

The main functions of a scuba computer are to monitor dive time and depth and calculate safe dive profiles. They do this by combining a timer and a depth gauge along with intelligent software to compute absorption of gases and decompression. Most basic models will also monitor a diver’s ascent rate. All divers learn about nitrogen absorption, decompression and manual dive tables in their open water certification class. A scuba computer can make your diving experience more fun by automatically managing your nitrogen.

Dive Computers vs. Dive Tables

Even though scuba computers are more flexible than dive tables, it is still the diver’s responsibility to plan their dive in accordance with safe diving guide lines. I can still hear my open water instructor saying “plan your dive and dive your plan”. The job of the computer is to keep track of depth and time spent underwater, compute the amount of nitrogen in the diver’s body and to alert the diver when these levels are getting too high. The computer also tells the diver when to make necessary decompression stops.

Traditional dive tables use only two things to track a dive, depth and time. Tables assume a dive goes straight to the maximum depth, stays there for a certain amount of time, and then bobs back to the surface. Most dives are not “square dives”. Most of the time a diver will descend slowly, swim up and down and around to navigate the bottom or reef formations, then ascend slowly to the surface. Because of their “square thinking”, dive tables calculate nitrogen consumption more conservatively. Because computers use a more accurate curved profile when tracking depth and time, they allow diver to go deeper and stay down longer. With a good computer, a diver can get more out of their diving.

Another nice feature of scuba computers is most models will come with a computer interface. This enables divers to download their dive profiles on to their PCs and create dive logs.

Types of Dive Computers

Because there are many types of divers, there are many types of computers. Some of the basics types are:

1. MULTI-GAS. This type of computer can calculate dive profiles for several different mixtures of breathing gas, from normal air to various oxygen-enriched blends of nitrox.

2. CONSOLE-INTEGATED. This computer is built into the diver’s console which is attached to the high-pressure hose from the 1st stage of the regulator. Because of this it also displays remaining air supplies.

3. WRIST-MOUNTED. This type is typical of a basic level, watch-style computer. It provides data on depth, dive time, ascent rate, and safe dive profiles, and is for use with normal breathing air.

4. RADIO-UPDATED. This wrist-mounted computer also displays how much air remains in the diver’s tank by means of radio updates from a module screwed into the high-pressure port of the 1st stage of the regulator.

Buying a Dive Computer

With so many features on scuba computers these days, it can be a bit overwhelming trying to choose the right one. Here are some things to consider when buying a scuba computer:

• Is the display easy to read and is it backlit?

• Are the buttons far enough apart so they can be easily pressed when wearing dive gloves?

• Can the battery be changed without sending it back to the manufacturer?

• Does the computer have decompression management and a “time-to- fly” feature?

• Will the computer handle breathing gases other than air, like nitrox?

• Is the manufacturers information easy to understand and do they have a good warranty?

• Does the computer have a digital interface?

Computer Safety

One of my dive instructors would always tell us there is not a dive computer on the market that can replace good old common sense. Never rely solely on a scuba computer. Always practice calculating dive profiles using dive tables and make sure you carry back up devices like a dive watch, depth gauge, and a submersible pressure gauge.

Scuba Gauges, Giving Scuba Divers Critical Dive Information

Scuba gauges give a diver three very important pieces of information:

1. Time

2. Depth

3. Air Consumption

This information enables a diver to stay within safe time and depth limits and avoid running out of air. There are many different devices on the market to help with this, from simple gauges to complex digital consoles.

Time

If a diver is not using a dive computer to monitor their nitrogen, they dive according to approved dive tables. To use dive tables properly, a diver needs to track their downtime. This can be done with a good dive watch. Two things make a good dive watch: water resistance and a rotating bezel.

1. Water Resistance. Good dive watches are rated to a depth in meters or feet (e.g. 200 feet) or a pressure rating in atmospheres (e.g. 4atm). Even though most divers probably won’t dive below 130 feet (the recreational dive limit), a good dive watch should be rated to 200 feet. Note: There is a difference between “water resistance” and “waterproof”. A “waterproof” watch is what you would wear in the shower, but would probably start leaking at 15-20 feet.

2. Rotating Bezel. A bezel is an adjustable ring on the face of the dive watch with a pointer indicator. At the beginning of a dive, the pointer on the bezel is aligned with the minute hand where it stays though out the dive. At the end of the dive, you compare the difference between the bezel and the minute hand to find out the length of the dive. The bezel should only move “counterclockwise”. It is possible to accidently move the bezel during a dive. Because of this, watchmakers make sure any accidental movement will turn the time in a conservative direction, making the dive longer rather than shorter.

Depth

Another important part of scuba gauges is a depth gauge. A depth gauge enables a diver to keep track of their depth even if they cannot see the water’s surface. Gauges can be either an analog (needle-and-dial) device or a digital device. Both work in the same way. They measure the surrounding water pressure and convert this into an accurate reading of your depth. Another feature of a good depth gauge is a maximum depth indicator. This tells a diver their maximum during a dive and must be reset after each dive.

Air Consumption

Another equally important part of scuba gauges is a submersible pressure gauge (SPG). This is connected to the first stage with a high-pressure hose and measures the pressure of the air in the tank. The SPG is much like the gas gauge on a car. At the beginning of a dive, a diver starts with a full tank. This should be about 3000 psi or 200 bars. As the diver breathes during the dive, the gauge will move slowly downwards. This allows the diver to have enough air left in the tank to:

1. Make a slow, safe ascent

2. Make any necessary decompression stops

3. Inflate their BCD once at the surface

4. Breath from the regulator if the surface conditions are rough

A submersible pressure gauge also allows a diver to stop diving with air still in the tank. This keeps contaminants from entering the tank due to no air pressure.

Wrist Depth Gauge

Scuba gauges come in two basic styles. Stand alone gauges or gauge consoles.

Stand alone gauges such as a wrist mounted depth gauge or a submersible pressure gauge attached to the first stage of a regulator are great backups when using digital gauges. Gauge consoles allow divers to have all their gauges in one place.

Although less easy to read, analog gauges sometimes give slightly more accurate readings than digital gauges, particularly at shallow depth.

Choosing Scuba Gauges

When choosing scuba gauges, remember to look for:

1. Easy-to-read numbers
2. Luminescent dial or back lighting options
3. Rotating/swivel mounting
4. Easy disassembly for cleaning or replacing parts
5. Good warranty

The Scuba Regulator, a Key Life Support Device for Scuba Divers

One of the most important items of diving gear is a scuba regulator. It is the invention that makes scuba diving possible. It is a two-stage gas-supply system that gives a diver air from their dive tank at the correct pressure to be able to breathe underwater.
A scuba tank can contain a large amount of air in a small space. This is because the air in the tank has been highly compressed. Before a diver can breathe this compressed air, it must be reduced to a safe pressure. This pressure differs depending on how deep a diver is underwater.
The deeper a diver goes, the greater the pressure of the water pressing on their chest cavity. This is what we call Ambient Pressure. The air a scuba tank supplies must be at the same pressure as Ambient Pressure. If the pressure is not the same, the lungs will not be able to inflate properly.

How a Scuba Regulator Works

The scuba regulator uses two different parts to do its job of supplying air at the right pressure. The 1st stage, which is connected straight to the top of the scuba tank; the 2nd stage, which is also known as the demand valve (the round thing a diver has in their mouth that blows bubbles). It is connected to the 1st stage by a rubber hose. Both stages play an important part in delivering air at the correct pressure.

1st Stage

The job of the 1st stage is to reduce the air coming out of the tank to a lower pressure of around 116-145 psi (8-10 bars) above ambient pressure. A valve opens in the 1st stage and allows some of the low-pressure air to pass into the hose that connects the 1st stage to the 2nd stage and then closes again. When the air inside the hose is inhaled by the diver, the 1st stage detects a decrease in the pressure in the hose. It then allows more air to flow in, replacing the air that was used by the diver. It automatically adjusts the air pressure in the hose when depth changes occur. It also supplies air to inflate a divers BCD or dry suit. This is done with separate hose going from the BCD or dry suit to the 1st stage.

2nd Stage

The second stage, or demand valve, reduces the low-pressure in the hose to the same pressure as the water a diver is swimming through. This allows a diver to breathe normally. Inside the second stage is a diaphragm. This diaphragm is subject to equal forces of water pressure on one side, and air pressure from a breathing diver on the other side. Breathing in from the mouthpiece reduces the air pressure inside the chamber. The water pressure pushes the diaphragm in, opening the intake valve. When the diver stops inhaling, the pressure in the chamber balances and the valve closes. This gives a diver an air delivery system that supplies air only when they ask for it (Inhaling). A well balanced regulator that is properly maintained will do its job so well that breathing becomes natural and effortless.
The 2nd stage also has an exhaust valve. This lets a diver exhale air out without letting water in. This is done with a simple one-way valve that lets the air escape.
There is also a purge button located on its front surface that, when pushed, allows air into the chamber of the 2nd stage. This air pushes or purges water out of the chamber through the exhaust valve or mouthpiece (this is where the bubbles come from).

The Octopus

The octopus, or alternate air source, is another 2nd stage. It is a backup 2nd stage which is to be used if a diver’s primary 2nd stage fails or if a diver needs to make an emergency accent with another diver.
The octopus and the hose it is attached to are usually colored bright yellow. The bright yellow color makes it easy to find in an emergency. The hose attached to the octopus is longer. This allows it to be offered to a buddy easily and for the buddy pair to remain face to face in a shared-air accent. It is attached to the BC in the area of the diver’s chest.

Tips on How to Choose the Right Regulator

A scuba regulator is a vital piece of any diver’s scuba gear. Because of this, most divers choose to buy their own instead of having to rent one every time they dive. Prices vary enormously, but it is worth investing descent money in a good one. After all, a diver’s life depends on it.
There are several types of scuba regulators. Basic ones are simple, inexpensive and can be very reliable and durable. High-performance ones are more expensive and combine high build quality with low inhalation effort and toughness. Some are environmentally sealed for cold-water use.
And for those divers that are nitrox nuts, there are regulators designed to handle high oxygen concentrations without risk of combustion.
Here are some things to think about when choosing a scuba regulator:

• A primary second stage that has a comfortable mouth piece and easy to hold
• Makes breathing feel “effortless”
• External controls which let you make fine adjustment to air flow
• A purge button that can easily be pushed while wearing thick dive gloves
• Swivel joints on the second stage that offer improved ease of movement
• A good warranty
• Never buy an unbalanced regulator
• Some divers prefer diaphragm regulators for their smooth movement and they have less moving parts

The right scuba regulator is the most important purchase a diver can make. It is important to take care of it properly by rinsing it in fresh water after every dive and storing it out of direct sunlight. They need to be serviced periodically by a dive professional.

Find The Scuba BCD That Is Right For You

Scuba BCD’s, or Buoyancy Control Devices are an essential part of a scuba divers equipment. This jacket style device helps divers control their buoyancy while on a scuba dive. In addition to buoyancy, it is where the rest of a divers gear is secured. A scuba bc will have a harness to secure a dive tank, pockets and clips to attach a divers gauges and octopus.

Buoyancy Control Devices come in several different styles. This enables each diver to find just the right scuba bcd. The most common type is the “Vest” or “Jacket” style. This is worn like a jacket or vest with the inflatable bladders on the sides. There are two over the shoulder straps with quick release clips. Across the mid section the is a cumber bun and or strap with a quick release clip. This jacket or vest style enables divers and all their gear to float comfortably at the surface in the head up, feet down position.

Another type is the “Wing” style. This scuba bcd has the inflatable bladders on the back of the jacket instead of on the sides. This style enables divers to swim at the surface with all their gear in a face down position.

Woman in water with Buoyancy Control Device

When choosing a buoyancy device, fit and comfort are very important. If the jacket is too small, it is difficult to inflate without restricting your breathing. If the jacket is too large, it becomes very sloppy underwater. The tank is all over the place. One minute it’s banging you in the back of the head, the next minute it’s under your arm. A jacket that is too small or too large makes for a very uncomfortable dive.

Your buoyancy device should fit like your best coat. Not too tight under the arms or around the shoulders. Just a little snug across the belly. Divers can feel when their bc jacket fits just right. They can inflate the jacket to float comfortably at the surface with all their dive gear or adjust their buoyancy underwater and never loss the comfort or fit of the jacket. And ladies, there are scuba bcd jackets made just for you. Most all manufacturers have designed buoyancy devices for the shape of the female body.

Another thing to look at when buying a buoyancy device is lift capacity. Proper lift capacity allows divers with all their dive gear to float at the surface with their head comfortably out of the water. This will differ from diver to diver based on body weight, density, and the amount of weight (to include weight belt, camera, flashlight,etc.) each diver carries.

Maybe it’s the basic “jacket” style. Perhaps it’s the more expensive “weight integrated ” style or even the top of the line all-in-one integrated BCD/weights/breathing system that works for you. With all the choices, a diver can easily find the right scuba bcd. Just remember these basic tips when looking for the right buoyancy jacket.

• Comfortable fit

• Lift capacity

• Good, quality construction

• Pressure release valves that are easy to reach

• Comfortable, quick-release straps

• Quick adjustment

• Pockets with Velcro closure or zippers

Dive smart. Dive safe.

Swim Fins. A Scuba Divers Underwater Propulsion.

Without swim fins, it is almost impossible for a scuba diver to move through the water. Fins are what give divers propulsion while diving. With the right pair of swim fins, scuba diving is dream of fluid underwater movement. Even when a diver is fully suited in their dive gear including: wet suit, BCD, tank and weights the right pair of fins will allow a diver to move almost effortlessly through the water.

There is a wide range of fins to choose from, depending on a diver’s specific preference. The choice is almost overwhelming. Types of fins include:

• Conventional fins

• Force fins

• Pivoting fins

• Split fins

• Snorkel fins

You want to make sure you choose fins that are comfortable, allow you to kick/swim for long periods of time without cramping your legs and which don’t pinch your toes or heels.Before deciding which fins to buy, consider the kind of diving you will be doing and seek advice from dive professionals and other divers.

Selecting The Right Pair

The first thing to consider when choosing a pair of fins is a comfortable fit. Fins that don’t fit properly can turn a good dive into an uncomfortable dive. A good pair of fins should fit like your favorite pair of shoes. They should be snug, without pinching your toes or heels. If they are too large, they can be kicked off during a dive. If you plan on buying fins that require booties, buy them at the same time. This way you can make sure the booties and fins fit together properly. It’s best to have fins that are one size bigger than the booties.

Swim fins have two types of foot pockets; full foot pocket or open heel pocket. The full foot pocket encloses the entire foot just like a slipper. Because you can not wear booties with a full pocket (even though some divers have tried), they are usually used for warm water diving. The open heel pocket encloses the front of your foot and uses a heel strap to secure the fin to your foot. You can have either a fixed strap which slides over the heel and fits snuggly or an adjustable strap with a quick release clip. Some divers wear an open heel fin barefooted. Most divers will wear an open heel fin with booties. Open heel fins are usually used for cold water diving.

Advances in fin technology mean that there is a wide range of fins for a diver to choose from. You can choose a less expensive conventional fin or a more expensive split, pivoting fin. Your choice should be based on comfort, the type of diving you plan to do and how much money you are willing to spend.